In the heartland of culinary tradition, where gastronomic rules are sacred and deviations are met with disdain, a seismic shift is unfolding on the streets of Naples. Italy, a nation staunchly protective of its pizza heritage, finds itself at the epicenter of a culinary controversy as renowned pizzaiolo Gino Sorbillo boldly introduces the unthinkable: pineapple on pizza. In a daring move to challenge culinary orthodoxy, Sorbillo adds the contentious 'ananas' to his menu on the famed Via dei Tribunali, a street synonymous with the world's best pizza.
Sorbillo's creation, the 'Margherita con Ananas,' priced at 7 euros (US$7.70), defies the norms of a Hawaiian pizza. This pizza bianca, devoid of the traditional tomato layer, showcases a symphony of three cheeses and pineapple subjected to dual cooking for a luscious caramelized essence. The third-generation pizzaiolo aims to combat food prejudice, breaking free from the shackles of culinary conformity. Speaking to CNN, Sorbillo explains his motivation: "Sadly people follow the crowd and condition themselves according to other people’s views, or what they hear. I’ve noticed in the last few years that lots of people were condemning ingredients or ways of preparing food purely because in the past most people didn’t know them, so I wanted to put these disputed ingredients – that are treated like they’re poison – onto a Neapolitan pizza, making them tasty.
Located in the historic center of Naples, a city boasting 3,000 years of history, Sorbillo strategically emphasizes his point. The pineapple undergoes prebaking before joining smoked provola, extra virgin olive oil, and fresh basil in the wood-fired oven. As the pizza emerges, Sorbillo artfully scatters 'micro shavings' of two distinct smoked cacioricotta cheeses sourced from Sardinian goats and buffalos in the nearby Cilento area. Despite its gastronomic allure, the pineapple-infused pizza has triggered an uproar among Italians, with social media flooded with insults and even national TV discussions.
In the midst of this culinary upheaval, Gino Sorbillo remains undeterred, challenging the status quo and redefining Neapolitan pizza with a touch of the unexpected. As the debate rages on, only time will tell whether the 'Margherita con Ananas' will become a quirky footnote in pizza history or mark a turning point in Italy's gastronomic narrative.
Unveiling his controversial creation, Gino Sorbillo, the acclaimed Naples pizzaiolo, shares insights into the pineapple pizza phenomenon that has ignited both curiosity and discord across Italy. Prior to the social media revelation, Sorbillo discreetly introduced the 'Margherita con Ananas' on his menu, observing a surprising influx of orders, even from discerning Neapolitans. Yet, the reception remains divided, sparking impassioned debates not only within Italy but beyond.
Sorbillo reflects on the prevailing skepticism, stating, 'Italy is split in half about it. And not just Italy. There’s a load of arguments that have opened up about it. I think people in general are not curious. They are mistrustful of anything different.' Despite the controversy, some, like food journalist Barbara Politi, embrace the unconventional topping. Politi points out the historical presence of pineapple in European culinary traditions, dating back to Christopher Columbus's encounter with the fruit in Guadeloupe in 1493.
She remarks, 'When Sorbillo launched it, I was curious and looked into how long pineapple had been used in Europe, and I found that it has been part of European [food] culture for a long time. So in reality, we’re talking about a question of mentality and of taste habits. I liked it, it’s a bit like sushi – at the start you might not love it but then it becomes a fixation.'
Sorbillo defends his creation, drawing parallels to the evolving landscape of pizza toppings in recent years. He notes the acceptance of once unconventional ingredients such as speck from Alto Adige, mortadella, chopped pistachios, powdered olives, mozzarella foam, and even jams. To him, rediscovering pineapple is a natural progression in pizza's culinary evolution. While acknowledging that his pizzaiolo ancestors might be perplexed, he emphasizes the importance of tasting before passing judgment.
Sorbillo draws a line at starting with a tomato base, citing the acidity clash with pineapple. Instead, he opts for a trio of smoked cheeses, transforming the pizza into a unique gastronomic experience. Responding to critics, he challenges, 'Pairings are important in food. If you pair ingredients well, the result is good. People who are gastronomically curious are eating it, which means we did well.' As the debates rage on, Sorbillo remains steadfast in his quest to challenge taste boundaries and reshape the narrative of Neapolitan pizza.
In the face of criticism surrounding his pineapple pizza venture, Gino Sorbillo, undeterred, leverages the backlash as creative fuel to birth yet another controversial culinary innovation. Responding to a challenge on social media, Sorbillo introduces a pizza featuring an unlikely protagonist: ketchup. Seizing the opportunity to defy expectations, he crafts a unique concoction by using homemade sauce derived from red and yellow Italian datterino tomatoes. This unconventional ketchup-infused pizza, set against a white base with smoked provola, sparks another round of fervent discussions.
Sorbillo, always one to embrace the unconventional, records himself indulging in the polarizing creation, surrounded by bottles of his homemade ketchup. With a triumphant tone, he declares it 'good,' proving that a simple tweak in ingredients or preparation can give birth to an entirely new gastronomic experience. Reflecting on this approach, Sorbillo muses, 'All you need to change is one ingredient, or one preparatory step, and you create a whole new thing.'
Confident in the transformative power of innovation, Sorbillo anticipates that the ripple effect of his pineapple pizza and ketchup-infused creation will extend beyond his pizzeria. He envisions a future where these once-controversial offerings find their place on menus not just in Naples but potentially reverberate across the broader culinary landscape. As the culinary maverick continues to push boundaries, Sorbillo's creations serve as a testament to the ever-evolving and dynamic nature of pizza culture.
In conclusion, Gino Sorbillo's bold foray into the world of controversial pizza toppings reflects a culinary rebellion against traditional norms. Undeterred by the divided opinions sparked by his pineapple pizza, Sorbillo not only defends his creation but leverages the criticism to birth yet another unconventional masterpiece featuring ketchup. His philosophy of introducing a single ingredient or preparatory step to create an entirely new culinary experience demonstrates the transformative power of innovation in the realm of pizza.
As the debates rage on and social media becomes a battleground for gastronomic opinions, Sorbillo remains unapologetically avant-garde, confident that his creations will continue to influence the evolving landscape of Neapolitan pizza. With the anticipation that pineapple pizza and ketchup-infused variations may soon grace menus beyond his pizzeria in Naples, Sorbillo's journey becomes a symbol of culinary exploration and a testament to the dynamic nature of taste evolution. In the ever-changing world of pizza culture, Sorbillo stands as a pioneer, challenging palates and reshaping perceptions, leaving an indelible mark on the rich tapestry of Italian gastronomy.